The majority of people prefer purchasing baby geckos in contrast to adult geckos, and this is usually because they would want to raise them themselves, thus creating a bond. Baby geckos are sensitive to certain diseases than adult geckos since their immune system is not yet completely developed, and they may get hurt sooner because of their undeveloped skeletal system.
There will be no evidence when your baby gecko sheds their skin, usually, they shed once or twice a week. Baby geckos enjoy communicating with people who often handle them.
Are Baby Geckos aggressive?
Baby geckos are aggressive and can be frightened easily. Due to fear, the baby geckos bite the handlers but these bites will not hurt you much. A mistake made while feeding the food may provoke their aggressive character.
Don’t handle your baby gecko straight away after bringing it to your home, they require at least 2-3 weeks to adapt to their new home. Remember that your new gecko will most likely be scared of everything around them. Adult geckos don’t have big teeth, so their bite will feel like a pinch. Remember that your gecko might bite your finger accidentally when feeding by hand.
Avoid appearing abruptly in front of the tank. In the first two weeks patiently, stretch your hands in the tank slowly to provide food and water and to clean the tank. Gain the gecko’s trust before handling it.
Handling a Baby Gecko
The manner of handling your baby gecko heavily depends on its sensitive nature. In the first month, handle your gecko only while cleaning the cage; and make sure to clean the cage twice a week.
In this period your gecko will develop trust in you. In the first month of doing this, start the handling session for 3-5 minutes. Once you feel your gecko is warming up to you, slowly increase the handling time to 15-20 minutes.
Don’t Stress These Baby Geckos!
Again, the baby gecko needs some time to adapt to the new scenes, sounds, and scents around. The trip from its place to your home may have already frightened the gecko and with the stress of a new environment, it might refuse to eat for the first week. If this happens, leave the gecko alone and let it set first.
Stop feeding the bugs if they are not disappearing. Your gecko will also get stressed by the excessive insects in its home. Don’t catch or grab the gecko while it is trying to run from you, either! It might end up detaching its tail due to fear.
A 10- 20 gallon terrarium or small tank is sufficient for your baby gecko. If having a gecko is new for you, then you may also provide storage boxes as a temporary enclosure to the gecko. It has to be a foot high, otherwise, your baby gecko will jump out of the box.
It may be hard to maintain the necessary warmth and humidity if you acquire tanks larger than 20 gallons and do ensure that your gecko avoids sitting under heat and ultraviolet (UV) lights. A larger tank makes it harder to maintain proper temperature and humidity.
Set up a secured mesh on the top to support ventilation and to limit escaping chances. Provide a hidden space to support humidity and shedding of skin.
You can also equip living plants or artificial plants to maintain the humidity level. It should also be known and remembered that commercially available sand is extremely dangerous for your baby gecko.
Inside the enclosure, you should provide:
- Provide three hides: on the warmer side, on the cooler side, and on the humid side.
- Offer a shallow water plate to ensure your gecko does not drown.
- Other decorations (like rocks, terrarium decor, logs, plants)
The lighting in the enclosure should spend 12 hours turned on then off for the next 12, so the gecko will have a sense of day and night. Note that if you provide UVB lighting then AVOID Vitamin D3 in the diet or with calcium supplements.
Choose personalized heat-providing equipment according to the requirement of your gecko:
- Halogen light bulb
- Ceramic heat emitter
- Carbon filament heat projector
- Deep heat projector
- Heating cable
- Heating pad
- Reptile heat tape
Substrates for gecko enclosure
The recommended substrates for the baby geckos are:
- Paper towels, non-glossy newspaper, or butcher block paper
- Reptile sand mat
- Shelf liner
Food for Baby Geckos
To support the weight gaining process in a sick gecko, provide some commonly available insects like mealworms, butter worms, wax worms, and super worms.
Feed insects in oodles as they are rich in calcium:
- Black soldier fly larvae
Stop providing the insects when you notice the tail of the gecko is getting bigger than their neck, otherwise feed them an insect with lower fat. If the enclosure of the gecko is added with UVB lighting then you must buy a calcium powder without vitamin D3.
Water for Baby Geckos
Baby gecko requires fresh water every day. Offer a shallow bowl of chlorine-free water once a day. Place the water bowl on the cooler side of the tank. Your gecko will either use the bowl to drink or to bathe.
Geckos prefer to drink the daily misting water over the water bowl. Since the distilled water lack nutrients and minerals, your gecko may develop some medical issues, so always provide the dechlorinated water. Also, avoid untreated tap water.
Reasons why a baby gecko might not eat
Usually, the baby gecko usually goes on a hunger strike for 2-3 days before and after the shedding of skin but if your gecko avoids food for more than 5 days, contact your seller for workout options.
If your gecko refuses to eat cricket or mealworms, then try controlled portions of wax worms (high in fat). When the gecko finally starts eating, cut out the wax worms sooner from its diet.
Male geckos start breeding when it reaches the age of 1 year and females at 2 years. The females take a year longer to breed since the eggs are large and so they can avoid harming their growth cycle. Majority of geckos mate during late winter and early spring. Most gecko owners separate the gecko eggs and incubate them at 78-92 degrees.
The sex of a gecko depends on the temperature it grows in. Some types of female geckos reproduce by parthenogenesis. In this way of reproduction, all the offspring will be a duplicate of their mother. Examples of parthenogenetic geckos are Australian Bynoe’s gecko and mourning gecko.
Common Diseases for Baby Geckos
Impaction is fatal if untreated. This happens when the gecko eats indigestible food (like sand in the tank) or food that is larger than its gut. This is the most common gecko disease, you should be aware of.
Internal parasites in geckos
It is transmittable and is also caused by low-quality food. The most common and easily noticeable symptoms are thinning of the tail and weight loss. Other symptoms are loss of hunger, laziness, and vomiting. Take your gecko to the specialist veterinarian for getting medication to eliminate the parasites.
Metabolic bone disease/disorder:
A diet that lacks calcium and vitamin D3 can lead to the growth of soft or rubbery bones that would be unable to support the gecko’s weight. This condition is called metabolic bone disease/ disorder (MBD).
Symptoms include distorted limbs and struggles in raising the body off the ground. You can prevent MBD by providing your gecko with calcium and vitamin D3.
Your baby gecko requires a certain time to get adapted to the situation. Providing them space can be supportive of their growth. Over time you can develop a beautiful bond with your pet gecko but till that just have control over their behaviors. As they are juveniles they may not convey their inconvenience, so a keen observation is required.